Casual and collaborative
March/April 2023 California Bountiful magazine
World-renowned chef
leaves fine dining behind
Story by Barbara Arciero
Photos by Lori Eanes
That was then. This is now, as chef David Kinch steps away from a two-decade run as founder of one of the most highly acclaimed restaurants in California. He closed Manresa, a fine-dining establishment in Los Gatos known for its extravagant farm-to-table tasting menus, with a $725 New Year’s Eve blowout.
His focus now: casual dining.
Kinch has thus far launched two casual concepts and a bakery in the Bay Area. Mentone, in Aptos, offers “a fun twist on the cuisine of the Riviera from Nice to a bit past Genoa,” according to its website.
“It’s a part of the world I love to travel. It’s a part of the world where I like the food and the wine,” Kinch says, explaining why he chose that culinary style. He was also drawn to the similarities the Riviera shares with California’s Central Coast—“where the mountains meet the sea.”
Matthew Bowden serves as Mentone’s chef de cuisine and Chris Sullivan is general manager. Both worked closely with Kinch at Manresa.
“They’re instrumental,” Kinch says of his handpicked team. Mentone was “created for them to step in and do this.”
Sullivan describes the trio as “the right fit from the very beginning.” Each member is “very dedicated to our craft” yet “we don’t want to be too serious—we’re in Santa Cruz!”
Bowden says Mentone gives the three men an opportunity to elevate the preparation and service of casual fare—such as its flagship pizzas—using techniques perfected at Manresa. And they all enjoy the restaurant’s open kitchen.
“I’ve always been in fine-dining kitchens that are very quiet and secluded from the guests,” Bowden says. “It’s really fun to see people eating, smiling and having a good time.”
As for Kinch, he’s enjoying the transition to casual dining. “I’m looking forward to doing something different—new challenges in this later part of my life.”
Pro tip from Michelin-starred chef David Kinch: “All measurements for the recipes below are in metric by weight, including liquids. Why? Did you know a cup of flour weighs differently on a rainy day and a dry day? If you weigh the flour, it is always the right amount. The best kitchen tool one can buy nowadays is a $10 digital scale. Try it. Weighing all ingredients including liquids is done in every professional kitchen today. You will soon find it easier, more efficient and simpler than using old imperial measurements.”
- Gnocchi alla Genovese
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Mentone’s gnocchi—Italian dumplings—are light and fluffy, never gummy. Serve with your favorite sauce, but the team highly recommends pesto to make a genuine Gnocchi alla Genovese. General manager Chris Sullivan’s pesto tip: “Source the best basil you can, as this is the backbone. Too old or big and it will add unwanted bitterness.”
- White bean soup
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Seemingly simple, this traditional Ligurian dish is comforting, especially when the sun is out but the temperature isn’t quite letting you lose the sweater.
- Tarte de Mentone
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Often compared to pizza, pissaladière is “a casual hand snack when one is cruising the coastal roads of Nice,” Mentone general manager Chris Sullivan says. “Salty, savory, sweet. Pairs perfectly with a nice glass of rosé.”
- Fried sardines with Meyer mayo
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Wander the streets of historic Genoa, Mentone general manager Chris Sullivan says, and you are bound to find numerous friggitorie shops. “These places specialize in fried foods: Think little fishes, veggies, anything fry-able. Fresh Meyer lemons add a nice floral element while elevating such a simple food.”
- Sbagliato bianco
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Cocktail aficionados, take note of this popular beverage. Mentone’s version is essentially a “white/clear” version of the classic “broken” negroni.
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